Author: Nettie Stein-Miller
Contrary to popular belief, not all pizzas are created equal. There may be inconsistencies in the cheese-to-tomato-sauce ratio, the crust may be too thick or the toppings may be processed. The question of what a good pizza entails is so heavily debated that Jon Stewart created an entire video on pizza inequality—namely, the age-old Chicago-style vs. New York-style argument. Los Angeles, miles away from both cities, generates a third debate: Where can one find a good pizza in a West Coast city? I am pleased to announce that I have officially found the best pizzeria in L.A.: Bestia, the multi-regional nouveau Italienne restaurant located in the downtown Arts District (also known as the Warehouse District).
Bestia is faithful to traditional Italian pizzas with menu items such as the Salsiccia, with housemade lamb sausage, San Marzano tomatoes, ricotta, arugula and fermented chilies, and the Alla’nduja, with housemade spicy ‘nduja, san marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, black cabbage and fennel pollen. But it would not be a Los Angeles dining experience without some kale on the menu. Bestia’s spin on this Southern Californian staple is their Gorgonzola Kale with mozzarella, grana padano and olive oil, a tasty vegetarian option for those who do not like pork as much as I do.
But what makes Bestia’s pizza so superior? Chef Ori Menashe uses over 60 forms of charcuterie and even raises his own yeast culture, but there is something else responsible for his succulent flavors: the Neapolitan Acunto pizza oven. Invented by Vincenzo Acunto in 1892, the production of the Acunto has been passed down in the family for four generations, and remains in the skilled hands of Acunto’s descendants. What sets the oven apart is that beech wood is used to ignite the flames and oak wood is used to maintain the temperature—a fusion that creates a light, smoky flavor in the final product. There are only ten Acunto pizza ovens in the continental United States, including Bestia’s.
Though one could be completely satisfied with Bestia after only tasting these wood-fired pizzas, the menu offers a variety of dishes that beg to be sampled. The burrata with peaches, cherry tomatoes, pickled banana peppers, pea tendrils and mint is perhaps the most creative item on the antipasti menu. A slight deviation from the over-served caprese, the local Californian peaches and mint add a soupçon of sweetness that blends perfectly with the fresh burrata. The trace of mint is especially pleasant in the farro salad, where it is paired nicely with an avocado purée and grilled cauliflower—another Californian twist on a classic Italian dish.
Though chef Menashe hails from Israel, Bestia’s menu is mainly multi-regional Italian, as stated on its website.
“With Southern Italian food there’s a lot of Middle Eastern in it. That’s why I was drawn to Italian food,” Menashe said in an interview with Zagat.
The ability to cross regional borders within the confines of a five-course menu is truly phenomenal. Restaurants in Los Angeles that serve both grilled lamb heart and chicken liver crostini are far and few.
Comme entrée, one of my favorite items on the menu, is spaghetti Rustichella with sea urchin, squid ink bottarga, garlic, Calabrian chilies and breadcrumbs. Sea urchin has so much potential beyond sashimi, and chef Menashe makes wonderful use of the tasty creature by adding it atop a spaghetti that puts all other wheat to shame.
For secondi, the slow-roasted lamb neck with salsa verde is a perfect way to ignite the taste buds and prepare them for Bestia’s famous desserts. The other half of a match made in culinary heaven, Menashe’s wife Genevieve Gergis is the pastry chef responsible for producing delights such as the fig leaf ice cream and the coffee and donuts special (spiced chestnut zeppole with whipped cream and coffee ice cream).
With its combination of unique pasta dishes and pizza staples, Bestia offers Italian food to rival even the best of East Coast cuisine.
Find more delicious food reviews on Nettie Stein-Miller’s blog, Tiger Chow.
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