Author: Aralyn Beaumont
The cabin-like exterior glows iridescently in its porch lighting at night, conjuring vibrant images of a Southern home, minus the flickering fireflies and chirping crickets. Larkin’s, “a contemporary soul food joint” as they call themselves, looks anything but contemporary with its homey and mix-matched wooden furniture. That, and the menu is completely traditional. But enough of the trivialities. The food was amazing.
The menu includes the stews, the BBQ and the fried of the South. Sundry fried items include shrimp and catfish, which can be served either in a po’boy or on a plate with a choice of two sides from their array of Southern delights, such as spicy sautéed greens, garlic mashed potatoes and gravy and mac and cheese. The only things noticeably missing from the menu were waffles to accompany the fried chicken and red velvet cake, as desserts are made and announced daily.
My meal consisted of the pork baby back ribs with mac and cheese and portabello fries, which came with a spicy aioli that I immediately put to the side due to its lack of flavor and powerful level of spice. Mind you, I have an incredibly low tolerance for spice, so please, unless you suffer from such vulnerability, only use me as a guide for taste .
Upon arrival, my ribs looked disappointing—$19 for four ribs—however, those were the meatiest and most perfectly flavored ribs I have yet to have. They were tender; not perfectly tender, but tender, and the barbecue sauce was smoky and sweet without being too rich. The portabello fries were tasty, but they would have benefited from less batter. The thick batter masked the taste of the mushroom and after a some time caused the fries to become quite soggy as the breading absorbed all of the mushroom’s water.
The highlight of my meal was by far the mac and cheese. With the perfect amount of cheese and the subtle seasoning of pepper, the extra two dollars for the side was well worth it. The cheesy noodles did arrive incredibly hot and could not be touched until the rest of my meal was done, but for me, as someone who eats everything separately and saves the best for last, I had no qualms.
The garlic mashed potatoes is another delicious side to consider. The piquant garlic packs the mashed potatoes full of flavor, making them enjoyable with or without gravy. The white gravy was impressive, as it lacked the saltiness that plagues most gravies, and made the mashed potatoes richer but not too overpowering.
Others at my table ordered the fried chicken and shrimp and gumbo. While I avoided trying the gumbo and the spicy sautéed greens due to their advertised spice, the fried chicken was a pleasure to taste and rivaled the pork ribs. Flavorful, light and crispy, the breading on the chicken beautifully complimented the tender dark meat chicken. The chicken’s batter was the best of the batters at Larkin’s, as the breadcrumb batter on the shrimp was thick and almost entirely masked the shrimp’s fresh flavor.
Each entrée arrived adorned with a small corn bread muffin, which was a perfect accompaniment. The first bite I took of the corn bread brought me initial disappointment for I was expecting something soft and sweet, but what I ate was textured and mild as a result of coarse corn meal and a light sugar hand. However, as I finished my rich meal, I realized that the light flavor and grainy texture was exactly what my palate desired.
The sole dessert option of a walnut brownie a la mode came as a disappointment since the general idea of a nutty brownie does nothing to excite my taste buds. And this walnut brownie in particular was no different, as it had nothing enticing to offer. The brownie was flat and dense, borderline dry and necessitated the vanilla ice cream.
In fact, the brownie left me craving something more, so much so, that upon returning to my room, I finished my leftover mac and cheese. And even out of a cardboard box it was still terrifically tasty.
Overall, Larkin’s was impressive. Southern food often is greasy and rich, but Larkin’s has mastered producing flavorful and high quality southern food by incorporating spices and wholesome ingredients — not depending on oil and butter. Larkin’s also stays true to the Southern tendency to provide enormous entrees. However, despite the great food and the large portions, Larkin’s prices are a bit steep. Ribs and gumbo prices around $20 are justifiable, but the same cannot be said for shrimp and chicken. Nevertheless, I’ll go back, just when my parents visit and get the tab.
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